Monday, July 20, 2009

Mt. Rainier

The day finally came to put all the preparation to the test last week as we arrived at Mt. Rainier.  Climbing Rainier was the last big event planned while on Home Leave in the U.S. between assignments.   On wednesday 15 July we left Mike's house around 0500 and drove the 2.5 hours up to the Paradise visitors center. 

 Greg, Jeff, Zachariah, Ben, and Mike (I don't know why but Paul is missing) getting ready to start walking

After registering and collecting our blue bags we started climbing at about 0900.  We couldn't have asked for better weather.  We originally planned 4 days in case the weather was bad and it took longer to climb, but we had amazingly clear weather for the whole climb. 
 
Enjoying the first Clif bar

When we got to the lodge and were getting ready to climb I found that my sunglasses had disappeared and so I had to buy the one pair of non-geriatric looking glasses in the gift shop.  When I got back from the climb it turned out Bran had been looting my pack and had taken the glasses right before I left.

Pebble Creek, just before the ice starts (Jeff, Greg, Paul, and Mike)

Bathroom with a view of Mt. Adams (Ben)

Still a long way before Camp Muir (Paul, Jeff, and Zachariah)

500 ft below Camp Muir with Cathedral Rocks in view

Arriving at Camp Muir, finally

Digging out a pad for our huge 6-man base camp tent

Making water for the summit climb (Zachariah)

We burned through 3-4 liters per person of water on the first day, which is normal.  And on the summit bid you have to have about 1 gallon of water per person, so after setting up the tent we started melting/filtering the water for the next days climb.  It took about 2.5 hours to melt all the water and cook all the food.

Sunset from Camp Muir

Climbing up to Cathedral Gap from Camp Muir (Mike, Greg, Jeff, Paul, and Ben)

Most teams woke up around 0100 and kicked off for the summit bid in the dark.  We were a bit lazy however and tried to get up at 0300, rolled out of bed around 0400 and left for the summit climb at about 0500.  The nice thing about it was that we didn't have to climb by flashlight.

Stepping onto the Ingram Glacier from Cathedral Gap

The first look at the Disappointment Cleaver from Ingram Glacier (Zachariah)

View of Mt. Adams through Cadaver Gap on the Ingram Glacier (Ben)

Making our final approach to the Disappointment Cleaver

Weird spikey snow on the Cleaver

Looking down on the Ingram Glacier from the Cleaver

Clambering up the lower skree patch on the Cleaver

Settling in for a long break

After a long push to get to a safe place to rest we stopped on a small skree patch on top of the Cleaver and took about a 40 minute break.  At this point we started to see the first successfull summit teams coming down from the early morning groups.  We had come across a few unsuccessful groups that had had to return without making it to the top.

Ben jumping over a skinny and very deep crevasse

Greg jumping over the same crevasse

Checking out the last really big crevasse before the steep final climb (Paul, Greg, Jeff, Mike, and Ben)

Looking down on Little Tahoma from Emmons Glacier (Greg, Mike, Ben)

The summit (Greg, Jeff, Ben in back, Paul in front, Mike, and Zachariah)

We summited at about 1530 on 16 July with two strained knees and one migraine as our only group injuries.  We sat down in the crater to rest and Ben started going sort of crazy.  He had a steadily worsening migraine as we climbed and at the top it became so unbearable that he could hardly walk.  When he started asking us to medevac him we decided it was time to get down some elevation and see if it would ease the pain, so we only spent a mere few minutes at the top.  It was really an amazing climb, extremely difficult, and beautiful.  After summiting we turned around and made it back to Muir around 2100, a grueling 16 hour day.

A couple of months before the climb I had this dream that we all got to the top and there was a Japanese tourist bus there and someone had built a road up the other side.  We were really angry in my dream after half killing ourselves to get up there.  Well, as we approached the summit we passed the last team to come off the top before we got up there, and it just happened to be a 4 man Japanese team that flew to the States just to summit Rainier!  How random is that?

8 comments:

Megan and Greg said...

That dream is hilarious. I've been pretty anxious to see these pics and I'm glad you posted them. As strange as this is going to sound, that peeing one of Ben was absolutely stunning. What an incredible experience. I can't imagine what it would've been like. I'm glad you all made it back alive!

Rob and Erin said...

Wow! Awesome pictures! That looked like a lot of cold, hard work, with amazing results. Poor Ben, did getting lower help then? Did you speak Japanese with the last group? Oh, it also looked fun, not just work :0)

Ben said...

Sweet pictures. I'm still working on the video.

Julie said...

Beautiful pictures! And what an accomplishment! You guys were amazing.

Gary Patrick Ricker said...

This is Mom Ricker ...
Those are beautiful pictures ... I can't believe all that snow, and cold weather clothing ... sounds so "foreign" in July ... well, compared to 100+ in Texas. I LOL at Bran looting your bag and taking out the much-needed glasses :) Isn't it funny about your dream, and then seeing the Japanese people! Glad you didn't fall into one of those deep crevasses, and that you all got home safely. What a fun trip! xox

Tara said...

Wow, awesome pictures! Sounds like fun...well, sounds like Zac style fun at least!

Mike said...

This was a really great trip. I have already completely recovered (expect my sun burnt lip). It was really nice to have such a compatible group to do this. Everyone I talk to who has tried and failed basically blames it on the dynamics of the group they were with and the fact that they weren't a team pushing each other. That was really important for me.

I am already looking up at the mountain wanting to do it again. Maybe in a few years...then Ben can fall in a crevasse.

Matt said...

Wow...never thought anyone who once lived on Whaley Court could be badass enough to summit something that included names like Disappointment Cleaver and Cadaver Gap! When I grow up I want to be as cool as you Zach!